Breakfast and brunch can be the best meals of the day. But sometimes, what makes this meal the best part of the weekend is when it goes beyond Belgian waffles, blueberry pancakes and perhaps the “adventurous” cherry crepe.
Inside Komali, there are tables among the sleek decor with a large bar stocked to ensure satisfaction. But what’s better than the naturally lit dining room are the menus boasting “contemporary Mexican cuisine,” and a recent visit took advantage of the offerings around brunch.
Among the appetizers are the pork confit quesadillas. Don’t be fooled by what is described as a “lightly fried tortilla.” These three small quesadillas are puffed and perfectly crunchy. Filled with plenty of tender pork confit, there’s just enough Oaxaca cheese to smooth things off.
Order two plates of those quesadillas and a glass of a tamarind mimosa, and you’re set for the morning; quite possibly, for the day. Try not to fear this brown-colored mimosa. After one sip, the earthy sweetness will become a craving. And at $2 a drink, that’s really not too much of a problem.
Some other items on the list look like they could please a full table, such as a queso fundido, which has your choice of chorizo, sauteed chile poblano or sauteed mushrooms.
For those who are crazy about their Benedicts, you’ll find a version here, with, of course, a bit of a twist. A side of warm, perfectly salted black beans topped with a bit of cotija cheese frame one side of the poached eggs. On the other side are crisp breakfast potatoes simply seasoned with salt and pepper and chopped somewhat inconsistently: Some bites offer a crisp exterior and a smooth, soft inside; other bites are delicate, little crunch of potato.
The main attraction on the plate consists of two corn sopes (small rounds of fried masa) topped with two delightfully round poached eggs. Splurge the extra $4 for the filet mignon. The pieces sandwiched between the egg and sope are small, but more tender than you’d expect for a steak posing as breakfast meat.
The towered assortment is then topped with a pasilla hollandaise. Of course – again, for those passionate about a Benedict – the sensation of using the side of your fork to cut through it all, letting the smooth yolk flow out and blend into the sauce, is almost the best part. The hollandaise, kicked up only slightly with chili pepper, is fine, but nothing extravagantly experimental.
It’s necessary to note that if you do want a pancake, you can get one here – it’s just not your typical American type. The corn pancakes come with whipped goat cheese, piloncillo molasses, walnuts and caramelized bananas. There’s no doubt this savory-sweet assortment is executed pretty well.
For those of you really striving to get out of a typical brunch menu item, the beef and potato hash is much more enticing than the name implies. The name in Spanish (listed beside all items in English) is cazuela de papa, if that has you more interested.
This comes in a small pot (as that name implies ) nearly bubbling with a greasing beef broth, pico de gallo, crema, queso fresco and topped on the side with a fried egg. As the English translation implies, there is supposedly a potato hash in this meal, none of which was to be found when we ordered it.
Even so, what seemed like a starch-free meal was a savory brew that wouldn’t stop delivering flavor. The menu description is too simple for this plate that had spice and perfectly seasoned meat. Served with both corn and flour tortillas, it can all be eaten without a fork, as long as you don’t mind the grease running through the other side of the open tortilla.
For desserts, there are a couple that might catch your eye, such as a pineapple tres leches cake and crepes with cajeta (which sound even better once you know they come with caramelized bananas, strawberries and toasted walnuts alongside an appealing cotija cheese ice cream).
But there’s a classic street food that’s simple and well executed. The churros are nothing but crispy bread seemingly infused with cinnamon and sugar, then doused in it all over again. Really, it’s great. Dipped in the small cup of Mexican hot chocolate, it gets a little better. My only wish here was that this hot chocolate were hot in temperature and spice.
While the lunch and dinner menus will make you want to get a reservation for later, there’s enough on the menu to return for brunch alone, especially when considering all the restaurant options you can glance over when you’re craving something more than bottomless mimosas and a strawberry-topped waffle.
Location: 4152 Cole Ave., Suite 106 in Dallas
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to close Monday through Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday
Service: Attentive, not overly friendly
Ambiance: Sleek and modern, space becomes more noisy as people come in with the later brunch crowd
Payment information: Major credit cards accepted
Alcohol: Full bar