The line of seven people out the door at 12:01 p.m. on a July day in Dallas is usually a good sign. You can feel even more confident about the wait ahead of you as the smell of smoked meat tells you it’s worth it.
Mike Anderson’s BBQ already has a decent reputation within the medical district: at least half the people in line with you will be wearing their scrubs.
Once you make your way through the glass door, past the menu hanging on the wall and to the beginning of the buffet line, you might be scrambling to place your fork and knife on your plastic tray.
The most important matter comes first: a sturdy man with a knife asking what kind of meat you want for lunch.
Mike Anderson’s menu has the typical offerings of meat plates, sandwiches and oversized baked potatoes.
When a potato this size is piled with cheese, chives, chopped beef and sauce, you have more than enough for a meal with each fork delivering a smooth, melted bite.
On my last visit, I went for the “bbq dinner plate.” When I asked for brisket, I wasn’t asked for how fatty I like it (a treatment I’m used to at Lockhart Smokehouse). I normally wouldn’t have minded too much, except my luck of my place in line had what was left of that hunk of brisket.
The smoke ring looked fine, though the rest of the grey meat lacked real flavor and it really needed… sauce. Luckily, the sauce here is more than acceptable. It’s smoky and not overly sweet. Other visits have proved that good, more flavorful brisket can be served here.
The sausage—or hot links as they go here—is good, the meat is creamy, as much as meat can be, though the casing could use some extra crispness.
The real focus of this meal from the beginning should have been the ribs. These are smooth and smoky, with flavor throughout—no sauce needed.
Down the buffet lines are various, expected side dishes. The cheesy corn bake with Poblano and onion is a velvety mash of a side, with a bit of spice and plenty of cheese. It outdoes many of the other, traditional options.
The coleslaw is laced with plenty of garlic, which combats the flavor of barbecue sauce if you happen to have the two in the same lunch.
The side item listed as Mama’s Dill Tater Salad actually makes for a cup of flavorful creamed potatoes. This side bowl will be empty by the end of your meal.
The barbecue beans and sausage side is savory, though it comes out more of a soup than it should be.
If you’re looking for a more reasonably sized lunch, go for the sandwich—any chopped meat with a bit of sauce is sandwiched in a well-buttered bun.
Just before noon, the sun beats down on the side of the building where the line forms. Every so often, this meal is worth this wait in the heat.
Mike Anderson’s BBQ
Location: 5410 Harry Hines Blvd. in Dallas, 75235, 214-630-0735, mikeandersonsbbq.com
Hours: 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday
Ambiance: A local dive with crowded booths and tables throughout the lunch hours
Payment information: Major credit cards accepted